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As the French Parliament debates a bill aimed at curbing the environmental impact of the textile industry, fast fashion giant Shein revealed on October 1st its plan to open its first brick-and-mortar stores in France ; a move that immediately sparked widespread criticism.
French lawmakers aim to curb the growing fast fashion market
The fast fashion phenomenon is sweeping across French and European markets, offering low-cost products that are often of lower quality and replaced at a fast pace. This business model is dominated by large Asian firms, including Shein, Temu, and AliExpress.
In response to these significant environmental and societal challenges, the 2020 Anti-Waste Law introduced a repair bonus to encourage a circular economy, while the 2021 Climate and Resilience Law implemented environmental labeling, known as the eco-score, across several sectors, including textiles.
Building on these measures, the Senate-approved bill of June 10, 2025 seeks to go further by implementing concrete solutions to curb the environmental impact of the textile industry.
Lawmakers have also extended the scope of the bill to online platforms, such as marketplaces like Temu, which allow consumers to purchase products from multiple sellers.
To align with European legislation, the bill targets only ultra-fast fashion, rather than fast or ephemeral fashion as a whole. The category of ultra-fast fashion includes practices that flood the market with large quantities of new products, often poorly durable and rarely repaired. The specific criteria (such as the number of items and incentives for repair) will be set by a decree.
The aim is to raise consumers' awareness of the environmental and social impacts of this industry while promoting more responsible practices, including reuse, repair, recycling, and eco-sustainable consumption, notably through information displayed on the websites/platforms selling the brands at stake.
The bill also prohibits the use of the word “free” on websites and online platforms selling these products, such as in the case of free shipping. It further bans any advertising in traditional media for fast fashion products or brands. Lawmakers have extended this rule to influencers, including non-monetary compensation such as clothing loans, trips, or other invitations.
The vote of this bill by the French Senate does not mark the end of the legislative process: a joint committee of senators and members of the lower house should set to convene to draft a unified text ahead of the law's final adoption. Additionally, the European Commission must be notified beforehand to ensure the bill aligns with EU regulations.
Fast fashion giant Shein opens shops in France, sparking outrage
As France tightens its regulations on fast fashion, Chinese brand Shein announced in early October that it will soon open its first bricks-and-mortar stores in the world… in France. Starting in November, its products will be available on the sixth floor of the famous Bazar de l'Hôtel de Ville in Paris, operated by the Société des Grands Magasins (SGM).
Five other stores are expected to open in Galeries Lafayette locations under the SGM franchise in Dijon, Reims, Grenoble, Angers, and Limoges, while the Parisian Galeries Lafayette stores, which are not part of the SGM franchise, have committed to preventing Shein from opening in their locations.
Shein's plan to open stores in France (having previously been sold only online or in pop-up shops) has sparked strong criticism. Several brands present in these stores have officially ended their partnerships with the SGM group, while employees, notably from BHV, protested last week in front of the iconic Parisian store. The industry also reacted: on October 13, the Union du grand commerce de centre-ville (UCV - Union of Downtown Retailers) announced that an unanimous decision has been taken to exclude SGM.
The backlash against fast fashion, in particular Shein, is spreading fast, since September, when twenty European textile industry federations called on the European Union to slow down the rise of low-cost online retail platforms. Already in May, the European Commission and national authorities had called on Shein to comply with European consumer protection rules.
Facing the combined challenges of consumer trends, industrial realities, and environmental concerns, France's initiative marks a turning point toward a more responsible fashion industry.
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