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Industry experts are warning of a "return to the super skinny trend", after a rise in the banning of popular high street fashion adverts which presented models who looked "unhealthily thin". Campaigns included in the recent wave of Advertising Standards Authority (ASA) bans, include Zara, M&S and Next – underlining how prominent high street names are falling short of expected standards.
The key question is whether this surge in bans signals the revival of the controversial 'heroin chic' aesthetic, or rather the difficulty for brands trying to strike the balance of promoting healthy body standards without "erasing the diversity of real bodies". M&S's recent controversy involved campaigns that "featured a model whose slim frame was emphasised by her pose, clothing, and camera angle", Campaigns that are coming under the spotlight all include models that are deemed "unhealthily thin", which is said to reminisce the 1990s and early 2000s, where "hollow faces and protruding bones" were a prevailing fashion trend.
The ASA recently informed the BBC that it has seen a "definite uptick" in complaints about adverts showcasing women looking "unhealthily thin". Typically receiving around five to six complaints monthly, the ASA reported over 20 complaints in just two weeks following the M&S ban. This debate does not exist in a vacuum. Model and activist Charli Howard, wrote a viral open letter where she underlined her worries that "we're on the cusp of seeing heroic chic return" as adverts and online trends such as 'thinspiration' glamorise extreme thinness. This outcry coincides with TikTok's decision to block searches for "skinnytok", a hashtag that applauds excessive thinness and diet culture, alongside popular fashion trends emphasising low-rise jeans and strappy cami tops. Retailers under scrutiny have been quick to reaffirm their commitment to "responsible content, and adhering to stringent guidelines for selecting and photographing models." A spokesperson for Zara even highlighted how they require all models to present medical certificates which attest their "good health".
Conversely, some observers argue that the ASA's focus may be disproportionate, pointing out that portrayals of "unhealthily fat" bodies often receive less scrutiny despite their potential to encourage unhealthy behaviours. It's clear that in a day and age where inclusivity and diversity are championed, representing "the beautiful messiness of real bodies within commercial constraints" is a tricky feat. Brands must work to authentically represent all types of bodies, and the ASA must ensure they are protecting consumers without over-policing natural body types; whether thinner or larger.
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