Italian fashion house, Prada, is under fire after their 2026 men's Summer/Spring collection unveiled during Milan fashion week. They displayed sandals which looked similar to Kolhapuri chappals, which are GI protected under the TRIPS agreement. Kolhapuri chappals received their GI tag in the year 2019 under the Geographical Indications of Goods (Registration and Protection) Act, 1999. Prada has listed the same on their website for around 1.2 lakh rupees and listed them as "leather sandals". Although Prada has admitted that their products were influenced by the traditional Kolhapuri Chappals, the issue remains whether any legal violation has occurred.
WHAT IS A GI?
A GI (Geographical Indication) refers to a sign that states that a product originates from a specific geographical location and contains specific qualities, characteristics and reputation due to its origin in that region. These products may refer to foodstuffs grown or produced in a certain way, wines and spirits made a certain way and handicraft items produced with skill and precision that belongs to the people of certain regions or cultures, that have been passed down through generations. GI law merely serves as a badge of origin and authenticity for a craft or product that comes from a particular region.
The rights and protection granted under GI protection are collectively owned by the agriculturists and artisans of the region to which the product belongs. Because of the collective nature of GI, the producers and marketers of GI must take collective action to set procedure standards, quality standards, marketing practices and distribution practices. Most commonly, a GI product includes the name of the place of origin, such as the case in Darjeeling tea, Madhubani paintings and Kolhapuri chappals. However, in some cases non geographical names or names associated with that place may also constitute GI.
WHY DOES THE KOLHAPURI CHAPPAL HAVE A GI TAG?
The Kolhapuri Chappal received a GI tag because it is a unique, handcrafted ethnic footwear with a distinct cultural heritage and traditional manufacturing process tied specifically to certain districts in Maharashtra. The GI tag legally recognizes and protects the chappal's origin, craftsmanship, and reputation, ensuring only authentic products made in these designated areas can be called "Kolhapuri Chappal" and preventing unauthorized use or imitation. It is a traditional craft practiced by the chamars (leather artisans) of Maharashtra. The chappals are handmade using vegetable-tanned leather, employing traditional techniques passed down through generations. The leather used is bag-tanned vegetable leather, tanned using natural materials like babul bark and myrobalan fruits, with a tannage degree around 40%. The footwear has a historical and cultural significance, tracing roots back to the 12th century in Karnataka and later flourishing in Kolhapur under royal patronage.
The key aspects to be focused on are:
- Is the current GI and IP framework enough to safeguard traditional crafts internationally?
On a worldwide scale, the TRIPS agreement of the WTO provides the framework for GI tags. Countries use this framework to frame their own municipal laws regarding intellectual property protection in the form of GI, because of which there tends to be differences in the law made by each and every country, owing to the differences in legal structures, cultural settings and financial models of each country. Under article 22(2) of TRIPS, GIs are shielded from unfair competition, including counterfeiting and misrepresenting the country of origin of a product. This helps in protecting the consumers from fraud and protects genuine products from imitation goods.
In India, GI is protected under the Geographical Indications of Goods (Registration and Protection) Act, 1999. It came into effect in 2003, with the goal protecting and helping with the registration of GI tagged products by providing a comprehensive framework. This statute, while adhering to the international standards set by TRIPS, has been modified to fit the current Indian socioeconomic needs of both the artisans and the consumers.
However, India, on a global level, lags behind in GI protected items, with India having only 658 items that are GI registered, compared to China and Germany having 7,000 to 9,000 GI registered items. One of the leading reasons for this is , in India most of the items that may be considered under the scope of GI registration, such as handicrafts and agricultural methods are carried out by people belonging to the lower castes. People belonging to these communities usually have limited access to the internet and electricity, thus leading them to have little to no access to the foreign markets. They have limited knowledge of marketing and displaying their crafts in online marketplaces or creating online websites for their crafts. This limited access to the online world lets them fall prey easily to any IP violation that may take place. Along with this, there is very little legal knowledge available to the lower castes in India, so even if they do get to know they are victims of IP violations, they may not be able to take up any legal recourse because of the high cost and time-consuming nature of litigation in India.
2. How can artisans enforce their intellectual property rights on a global scale?
essence of GI is to safeguard traditional knowledge and cultural heritage associated with specific product. Internationally, there are various ways we can safeguard our GIs, such as –
Through Bilateral agreements: bilateral agreements refer to a promise/ guarantee to mutually recognize and protect the other country's GI registration in their own country. India has bilateral agreements with the European Union (EU) for the protection of GI tags of Darjeeling Tea and Basmati Rice. The EU understands and implements GI protection very seriously, and if Indian items with the GI tags were to enter EU markets with GI tags, it would mean a significant increase in the import-export business in India and Products with GI tags are also found to command a significant premium in the EU, with their sales value being double that of similar products without GI certification.
TRIPS agreements: Through the TRIPS agreement, signatory states are required to provide mechanisms through which they are able to register and protect the items under GI.
National GI registration in foreign countries: under the trademark law of various countries, producers can directly file for GI registration of the goods, even if they do not belong to the country. In the EU one can file for GI using the PGI (protection of geographical indications) systems.
However, because of poor economic standing of the artisans, they are not able to access such resources and also are not able to properly understand and access the protection given by GI registration.
However, this is seeing a change with the rise of organizations that work for the upliftment and progress of such artisans and agriculturists. For example, in India, the Tea Board of India works hard against the misuse of the name and logo of "Darjeeling Tea", having registered or contended more than 15 cases over misuse of Darjeeling Tea title and logo, and has registered "Darjeeling Tea" and logo in over 20 countries.
3. How can we create a fairer global fashion system that ensures acknowledgment and financial benefits return to the communities that maintain these cultural traditions?
Equitable fashion practices, which call for sustainable and ethical practices in fashion, are claimed to be followed by all major fashion house, including fast fashion brands. These practices are to be followed not only by the producers, but also by the consumers of these products. Through academic and social discourse, there are 5 core principles to be followed by both producers and consumers for the wellbeing for the environment along with the wellbeing of the producers and consumers. These principles are:
- Transparency and traceability: Producers have an obligation to be transparent with the consumers about where the raw materials for the garments were obtained from, where it was made, etc. This helps give a more ethical angle to the entire process of garment making.
- Fair Wages and working conditions: Brands have a duty to provide fair and safe working conditions for their employees, where they are fairly compensated for their work. This was brought in as a core principle owing to various instances of overexploitation of not only men and women, but also of children working in overcrowded and unsafe buildings, for big brands to make a profit from. They were also not compensated for their work fairly, with wages being as low as $0.02 per item of clothing for over 18 hours a day.
- Sustainable materials and method of production: Brands are to use sustainable raw materials and methods of production when they are making articles of clothing. This is done to not only protect the environment from any harm, but also the workers and the consumers who may make or wear the product. It is important to be sustainable because the fashion industry is one of the most polluting industries in the world, with it releasing emissions that equal the emissions of the UK and the USA together.
- Circular economy principles: Encouraging a fashion economy that emphasizes reusing, recycling, and repairing articles of clothing and other fashion items — and not just discarding items after wearing them once — will greatly reduce the impact of pollutants that the fashion industry releases into the environment.
- Consumer empowerment: Giving consumers the chance to make informed opinions about the article of clothing they might purchase and use — such as what material it is made of and where it comes from — gives them the chance to make smart choices. This would lead to a decrease in the number of clothes that end up in dump yards because people are not just following trends, but rather choosing what they like and what would last them for years.
All these practices point towards creating a more equitable and sustainable system of fashion, wherein it is not only the big fashion houses that profit, but also smaller artisans who may not have the stage to present and sell their articles. This also helps smaller artisans, who may belong to rural setting, from falling victim to exploitation or their designs used without credit. The artisans work very hard to create their intricate designs but are not credited duly. As the craft they do is passed down through generations and requires intense practice, it is very important to credit these artists if fashion brands do use these in their collections as deviating from this would be unethical.
All these practices are important in creating a space wherein people can not only express themselves through fashion but also be sustainable and ethical when doing so.
CONCLUSION
The controversy surrounding Prada's Kolhapuri-inspired sandals highlights the complex challenges of protecting traditional crafts in a globalized fashion industry. While Geographical Indications (GI) offer a vital legal framework to safeguard the cultural heritage and authenticity of indigenous products like Kolhapuri chappals, the current system still faces significant limitations—especially in empowering the artisans themselves to assert their rights internationally. India's rich legacy of handicrafts and traditional knowledge deserves stronger global recognition and enforcement mechanisms, supported by greater awareness, legal literacy, and economic access for the artisan communities.
Building a truly equitable global fashion ecosystem requires not only robust IP protection but also ethical and sustainable practices from brands and consumers alike. Transparency, fair wages, sustainable sourcing, and consumer empowerment must become the norm to ensure that the creators of these timeless crafts receive their due respect and economic benefits. Learning from past disputes and fostering international cooperation can help prevent cultural appropriation and exploitation, turning fashion into a platform for celebrating and preserving diverse cultural identities rather than commodifying them.
Ultimately, honoring the legacy of traditional crafts like Kolhapuri chappals means embracing a fashion future where creativity and commerce coexist with cultural dignity and social justice—ensuring that the stories and skills passed down through generations continue to thrive and inspire worldwide.
Frequently Asked Questions (FAQ)
Q1: What is a Geographical Indication (GI) tag?
A GI identifies a product's origin and guarantees its unique qualities—protected under India's GI Act (1999) and the WTO's TRIPS framework.
Q2: Why do Kolhapuri chappals have a GI tag?
Their centuries‑old craftsmanship, region‑specific tanning techniques, and cultural heritage earned them GI status in 2019.
Q3: Can international brands replicate GI‑protected crafts?
Under TRIPS Article 22, unfair imitation is prohibited. Brands must respect GI enforcement in each jurisdiction.
Q4: How do artisans enforce GI rights abroad?
Through bilateral GI agreements (e.g., India–EU), TRIPS compliance mechanisms, or national filings under foreign trademark laws.
Q5: What ethical steps can fashion houses take when drawing inspiration?
Fashion houses should obtain artisan consent, share royalties, transparently trace supply chains, and credit source communities.
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